If appearance is important, the dowels would end a tad below the surface & the hole filled with a paste made of epoxy & sawdust. Result would be stronger than original IMO. Cut off flush the only evidence would be the dowel ends.
#Fix sks stock crack install#
Then install another similar in the wood between the trigger & mag inlets. In ref to photos, one would enter just to the right of the red arrow, angle about 45 degrees to the left of the screw hole. then after set-up install fiberglass dowels. Going into it a bit further, now after a good look at the photos - I would clean, fit, clamp, glue the break, etc. Go ahead and try the repair first, all you'll be out if you mess it up is the cost of the epoxy or bedding compound and a little bit of your time but if you pull it off you save the cost of a replacement stock. Laurel Mountain's stain is alcohol based so I haven't ever tried mixing it with epoxy to see if it works or not. BTW, you can use MinWax oil based stain to color clear epoxies the same color as the wood is going to be after staining just beware that a little bit of stain goes a long way when you color the epoxy. I like to use Tru Oil or Permalyn myself and I like both the Laurel Mountain Forge stains and MinWax oil stains to do my finish.
#Fix sks stock crack crack#
Make sure you get good coverage of the entire crack, where it's hard to get the crack separated use your fingers to "pump" it in similar to how you'd force grease into a wheel bearing until you see it oozing out the other side. I'd use the same glass to repair the cracks as you use to bed the action, the thicker stuff is less likely to drip. You now have a very small hole about 3/16 of an inch in diameter that can be filled with a mix of epoxy and sawdust that is hardy noticeable after staining and re finishing.įrom the looks of the picture of the crack that shows it closed up I don't see any missing chips and no alignment issues, with a little careful work it could be an almost invisible repair when finished. Coat the threads with a little epoxy and thread it in.ĭon't drill all the way through your stock, you just want to drill deep enough to go past the crack, that way you only have one hole to hide later. My favorite method of reinforcing a break is with machine screws, drill and tap the right size hole for the screw, I like #8 or #10 X 32 because they are small and easy to hide when you're done, cut the screw short enough to go below flush and file a screwdriver slot in the end of it. Third, with the crack spread force the epoxy into the crack, clamp your stock and clean up any excess that oozes out, acetone or white vinegar will remove the excess epoxy.Īfter it cures for 24 hours you can unclamp it. Barrel bedding epoxies will work just as well as the hardware store stuff but it will be wood toned so that might be something to think about. Second step is mix up a high quality epoxy, don't use the five minute stuff, it won't give you a lot of time to get things aligned and clamped in place. Once you mix up you epoxy you aren't going to have a lot of time to engineer your clamping set up. coat any clamp surfaces that will come into contact with the stock with a liquid or paste wax, it prevent the clamps from being permanently attached to your gunstock. Second step is plan your clamping system, get your clamps ready and do a mock up to make sure you have everything ready to go and where you need to clamp everything to bring it back into alignment when clamped, you might need to cut special shaped blocks to fit in between the clamp jaws and the stock to get the clamps to stay in place on those curved surfaces. if you have concerns about oils spray carburetor or brake cleaner into the crack and let it run out carring any oils or dirt with it, bear in mind this will damage the existing finish but chances are you are planning a re finish after repairing the stock so perhaps tis won't be of concern.
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